22-Day Road Tour of Norway III

Part III From Bergen to Geiranger

挪威自驾游三:从卑尔根到盖朗厄尔

Aurlandfjord 艾于兰湾

Aurlandfjord 艾于兰湾

Aurlandsfjellet

Aurlandsfjellet

Driving from Bergen to Geirangerfjord allowed us to cover some of Norway’s important Scenic Routes, such as Fv7  (Steinsdalsfossen - Granvin) and Aurlandsfjellet (Flam - Lærdal).

从卑尔根开车到盖朗厄尔峡湾可以覆盖一些重要的挪威风景路线,如Fv7(Steinsdalsfossen-Granvin)和Aurlandsfjellet(Flam-Lærdal)。

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We broke this journey up to three sections: Bergen to Flam, Flam to Leikanger Fjord, and Leikanger to Geiranger.

我们将这段行程分为三个部分:卑尔根 - 弗拉姆,弗拉姆 - 莱甘厄尔峡湾,莱甘厄尔 - 盖朗厄尔

June 25th

From Bergen, we took E16 west and switch to fv7, a scenic detour towards Hardangerfjord. 

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六月25日

我们从卑尔根取道E16公路向西绕道Fv7公路重回哈当厄尔湾。

Near Hardangerfjord, there is a waterfall, Steinsdallsfossen  (The Stone Valley Falls) which marks the beginning of the scenic route between Steinsdalsfossen and Granvin.

Steinsdalsfossen is located in a charming village called Steine which is 2 km west of the town of Norheimsund. 

在哈当厄尔峡湾附近,有个瀑布石谷瀑布(Steinsdallsfossen),标志着Steinsdalsfossen到Granvin之间风景路线的起始。 瀑布位于一个名为Steine的美丽村庄,距峡湾边的Norheimsund以西2公里。

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From the parking site, there is a nice footpath that crosses the river to the base of waterfall. The waterfall is 50 m high and is very loud.  

从停车场,有一条步道,跨过小河流带你来到瀑布底部。瀑布高50 m,响声隆隆。

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There is a path on the right side of the falls that takes you up high and behind the waterfall.  From there you get the overview of the river and the village.

瀑布的侧面又有一条步道带你上行到高处和瀑布的后面。从那里你可以透过瀑布看到河流和村庄。

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From Steinsdalsfossen, we continue on fv7 and drive along the beautiful Hardangerfjord.

从石谷瀑布我们沿Fv7公路开往美丽的哈当厄尔湾

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The landscape here alternates between the dramatic and the gentle, from thundering waterfalls to the fjord side vineyards. 

这里的风景千变万化,从柔和优美的水边农庄到雄伟的山崖瀑布。

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From Hardangerfjord, we went back to E16 and drove toward Flåm. Right on the road side of E16, we hit the gorgeous Tvindefossen waterfall.

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Tvindefossen waterfall is a 152m high waterfall that tumbles down in strands with a graceful character.

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From Bergen to Flam, we also drove through extra long tunnels, some as long as 25 km.  Some segments have beautiful lightings that prevent one from falling asleep.

从卑尔根到弗洛姆,我们还穿过了超长的隧道,有些长达25公里。有些路段上有漂亮的灯光,也许是可防止驾车人睡着。

Beautiful Norway tunnel

Beautiful Norway tunnel

Flåm: 

Flåm is a village sitting at the end of Aurlandsfjord, a branch of the vast Sognefjord.  It’s known for its fjords and nearby mountain scenery.  

弗洛姆(Flåm)是一个村庄,坐落在松恩峡湾(Sognefjord)的分支艾于兰湾(Aurlandsfjord)的尽头。它以峡湾和山景而闻名。

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One most important attraction near Flåm is the Stegastein viewing platform. From Flåm, take E16 and drive up north, after passing a steep zigzag mountain road, you will reach to a view point that is 650 m above Aurlandsfjord. 

弗洛姆(Flåm)附近最重要的景点是斯蒂加斯坦(Stegastein)观景台。从弗洛姆(Flåm)出发,沿E16公路向北,沿陡峭的山路上行,就可到达艾于兰湾上方650 m的观景台。

Stegastein Viewing Platform

Stegastein Viewing Platform

The same evening we arrived Flam, we drove up to Stegastein. The panorama view out over Aurlandsfjord simply took away our breath. 

到达弗洛姆的当天,我们就开车去了斯蒂加斯坦观景台。突出于峡湾之上的观景台让你把艾于兰湾的广角全景尽收眼底。

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The sunset over Aurlandsfjord was unforgettable.

艾于兰湾日落美不胜收

The Flåm Railway:

The Flåm Railway is a high light in Flåm. The train ride takes you from Flåm at the fjord level to Myrdal on the high mountain of 867 m.  It offers amazing views continuously as it climbs to a station on the Hardangervidda plateau.

弗洛姆观光铁路是弗洛姆的一大亮点。火车带你从海平面的弗洛姆上升到海拔867米的米尔达尔(Myrdal)。在上行至Hardangervidda高原的过程中,它带给你变幻多姿的高原景色。

Photo downloaded from the official web site of the Flåm Railway 照片来自网络资料

Photo downloaded from the official web site of the Flåm Railway 照片来自网络资料

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This mountain railway was named by National Geographic Traveler Magazine as one of the top 10 train journeys in Europe.

这条高山铁路被《国家地理》杂志评为欧洲十大火车旅行线路之一。
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Kjosfossen (above) is a major highlight of Flam Railway (Flåmsbana). The train stops here for five minutes for passengers to get off and take photos in front of this enormous waterfall. My camera and lens got so wet when I tried to take a lone-exposure photo of the waterfall.

Kjosfossen(上)是弗洛姆观光火车(Flåmsbana)的一大亮点。火车在这里停留五分钟,让乘客下车拍照留念。瀑布距离火车道很近,水流大极了,以致拍摄这张照片时,相机和镜头都打湿了。

Flåm is a place that has the combination of extremes. Besides the mountain scenery, it’s fjord landscape is also dramatic.

弗洛姆(Flåm)是一个集各种极致景观于一身的地方。除了山景之外,附近的峡湾也很美丽壮观。

The fjord cruise is another popular activity here.  A round trip from Flåm to Gudvangen takes you out to the UNESCO listed Aurlandsfjord and the adjacent Nærøyfjord.

峡湾巡游是这里另一个备受欢迎的活动。从弗洛姆(Flåm)到古德温根(Gudvangen)的往返游船带你观赏艾于兰湾(世界遗产)和相邻的纳柔依峡湾(Nærøyfjord)。

Flåm fjord cruise starts from Flåm and ends in Gudvangen 始于弗洛姆终于古德温根的峡湾船游

Flåm fjord cruise starts from Flåm and ends in Gudvangen 始于弗洛姆终于古德温根的峡湾船游

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It starts from Flåm in the broad Aurlandsfjord with steep mountains. The boat then turn left to enter the narrow Nærøyfjord that is more elegant.

游船先从弗洛姆进入宽阔的艾于兰湾,再向左拐入狭窄的纳柔依峡湾。

Aurlandford

Aurlandford

The narrow Nærøyfjord is even more impressive. Waterfalls drop from the mountains down to the still fjord water, scattered colorful buildings reflected on the mirror like water surface. 

狭窄的纳柔依峡湾更吸引人。瀑布从山崖坠入峡湾,岸边彩色的民居倒映在镜面似的海水上。

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6/27, after two nights in Flåm and the fjord cruise in the morning we left Flåm and set out towards the famous Geiranger. The first part of the journey was Aurlandsfjellet which is one of the National Tourist Routes of Norway (https://www.worldatlas.com/articles/national-tourist-routes-of-norway.html) , that runs between Aurlandsvangen by the Aurlandsfjord and Lærdal by the Sognefjord, with a length of 49km. 

6/27,在弗洛姆(Flåm)住一晚后,我们离开弗洛姆(Flåm)前往著名的盖朗厄尔(Geiranger)。此行程的第一部分是奥兰兹菲尔(Aurlandsfjellet),它是挪威国家风景线路之一。见下。

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The Stegastein viewpoint marks the beginning of this route.  After passing Stegastein, the landscape suddenly changed; the road literally became empty.  

斯蒂加斯坦观景台是这段景观路的起始。过了Stegastein之后不久,画风突然变化:道路两边突然变得空旷。

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This road over Aurlandsfjellet is a journey across a barren plateau through a desolate landscape. The road goes higher and higher. There was not much life to be seen, just snow, rocks and the occasional sprig of grass: such beauty of pure wildness!  

这条跨越奥兰兹菲尔的道路是荒野高原的穿越。道路越走越高,生命也越来越少。放眼望去看到的只是雪,岩石和少量荒草,有一种令人震撼的荒野之美!
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This national tourist route from Flam to Lærdalsøyri is also called Aurlandsfjellet Snow Road as it keeps man-high snow along the edges even during the summer time.

从弗洛姆到拉尔达索里(Lærdalsøyri)的这条旅游路线也被称为``奥兰兹菲尔雪路“,因为即使在夏季,路边也保持着一人高的积雪。

Aurlandsfjellet Snow Road

Aurlandsfjellet Snow Road

This road is closed in winter and reopened in June.  We were fortunate enough to there in July and witnessed its amazing scenery. 

这条风景路线在冬季是关闭的,次年6月才重新开放。 我们有幸在七月来到这里,见证了它令人惊叹的美。

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The Aurlandsfjellet Snow Road ends in Lærdalsøyri. From there we took fv55 to continue driving along the beautiful Sogndalfjord.  

奥兰兹菲尔雪路止于Lærdalsøyri。从那里我们沿Fv55号公路行驶于美丽的松恩峡湾岸边。

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We stopped in Leikanger, which is between Flam and Geiranger.  We stayed one night in the beautiful Leikanger Fjord Hotel, a nice and cozy hotel sitting on the picturesque Sogndalfjord.  

我们在弗洛姆和盖朗厄尔之间的莱坎格停了下来,并下榻于美丽的莱甘尔峡湾酒店(Leikanger Fjord Hotel)。这是一家优雅舒适的旅馆,坐落在风景如画的松恩峡湾岸边。

Leikanger Fjord Hotel

Leikanger Fjord Hotel 莱甘尔峡湾酒店

Leikanger Fjord Hotel. Our room faced the fjord which was so tranquil. 我们的客房正对着宁静美丽的峡湾

Leikanger Fjord Hotel. Our room faced the fjord which was so tranquil. 我们的客房正对着宁静美丽的峡湾

Leikanger Fjord Hotel

Leikanger Fjord Hotel

On June 28th, we took fv55 again and drove back along the fjord. It soon hit highway 5, where we turned up north towards Geiranger.  

6月28日,我们沿fv55顺着峡湾往回开, 很快我们接上5号公路,从那儿向北驶向盖朗厄尔。

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Fv55 along Sogndalfjord is beautiful!

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Near the village of Sogndalfjora, there is a lovely waterfront tent hotel

在松恩峡湾边上,我们看到一个可爱的帐篷旅馆。

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After driving Highway 5 and E39, we turned on to Fv63 towards Geiranger. Fv63 near Geiranger is another classic scenic road.

经过5号和E39号公路,我们接上通向盖朗厄尔的Fv63号路。这又是一条挪威的景点景观路线。

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一路田园风光怡人

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接近盖朗厄尔时,地貌显得跌宕起伏

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Rv63 near Geiranger

Norway is a country of fjords that are all beautiful.  But Geirangerfjord is the most special of all; and is, therefore, more crowded.  

挪威有很多美丽的峡湾, 但是盖朗厄尔峡湾却尤其特别, 因此游客也更多。

Geirangerfjord
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The terrain here is more dramatic.  It’s very photogenic from different angles all around the fjord.

这里的地貌更为夸张,可以从各个角度拍摄到美好景观。

To be continued 待续